Sewing machine



March 13, 1934. F. RICKS El AL 1,950,57

SEWING MACHINE Filed Nov. 10, 1932 4 Sheets-Sheet l T Vz'inem FChdiTOZSOTL v 32 10 31 44$ F. RICKS El AL SEWING MACHINE March 13, 1934.

fizz/anion Wimess Chasli'OZson March 13, 1934 F. RICKS Er AL 950,570

. SEWING MACHINE Filed Nov. 10, 1932 I 4 Sheets-Sheet 3 Witness Chas. IOlson g2 W March 13, 1934. F, RIC ET AL SEWI ACHINE Filed Nov. 10, 19324 Sheets-Sheet 4 a I a z/emfors .TOZson Patented Mar. 13, 1934 UNITEDSTATES PA'reNr orrrcs SEWING MACHINE Application November 10, 1932,Serial No. 642,052 In Great Britain December 11, 1931 14 Claims.

This invention relates to sewing machines and is particularly, but by nom ans exclusively, concerned with boot or shoe inseam sewing machinesior use in sewing together the welt, upper and insole of a welt shoe orthe upper and sole of a turn shoe.

An example of this class of machine is the well known Goodyear welt andTurnshoe sewing machine which is disclosed in the U. S. Patent No.1,108,560 to Eppler, dated August 25, 1914, and which may be providedwith continuous work feed mechanism such as is disclosed in the patentto Topham, No. 1,289,31 i dated'December 31, 1918.

In machines of this class as heretofore con structed there has been atendency for the sewing to be less tight round the toe than at the sidesof the shoe and th s has been due to a large extent to the fact that thestitches are more or less radial round the toe and therefore the pointswhere the needle emerges at the inside of the channel lip or lips arenot so far apart as the points where the needle enters the upper orwelt. For this reason the length of thread required to form a stitch atthe toe is less than that required to form a stitch at the sides. If amachine is arranged (with a View to overcoming said tendency) to sew atighter seam at the toe, an unduly tight seam is formed at the sides ofthe shoe with possible damage to the shoe materials there.

One of the several objects of the present in vention is to provide in awelt and turn shoe sewing machine means whereby a seam of substantiallyuniform tightness may readily be sewn at the sides and round the toe ofthe same shoe and accordingly one of the several features of the presentinvention resides the provision in a welt and turn shoe sewing machineof means whereby the operator of the machine can, without stopping thesewing operation on a shoe, cause a less amount of thread to beavailable for forming the stitches round the toe than at the sides of ashoe.

The above and other objects and the several features of the presentinvention will become apparent to those skilled in the art from aconsideration of the following description given by way of example, andin part with reference to the accompanying drawings of a preferred formof mechanism by which the objects of the invention may be achieved.

In the drawings Fig. l is a side elevation of parts of a welt shoesewing machine embodying a mechanism for controlling the amount of (Cl.ll258) thread available when sewing along the sides and round the toe ofa shoe according to the present invention, the parts of the saidmechanism being shown in relative positions they occupy at the beginningof the sewing round the toe; Fig. 2 is a view similar to Fig. 1 with theparts of the mechanism in the relative positions they occupy when sewingis being performed along the sides of a shoe; Fig. 3 is a side elevationof parts of the machine on an enlarged scale, the mechanism forcontrolling the supply of thread being shown in detail and in therelative positions they occupy subsequent to those of Fig. 1, and justbefore the parts assume the positions of Fig. 2; Fig. 4 is a frontelevation of the same parts of the machine on the same scale as Fig. 2,and in positions corresponding to those shown in Fig. 1; Fig. 5 is afront elevation similar to that shown in Fig. 4, parts of the mechanismbeing removed and shown in section; Fig. 6 is a side elevation of partsof the machine last referred to on a still further enlarged scale, and asection of a welt shoe being sewn at the side; and Fig. 7 is a Viewsimilar to Figure 6, but showing at the same time in the machine cyclethe said parts and a section of the shoe when the latter is being sewnat the toe. v

In the drawings 1 is the channel guide, 2 the back rest, 3 the needle, 4the looper and 5 the thread finger. In the said preferred form ofmechanism, the thread finger 5 is swung about its pivot 6 as usual by alink 7 connected by universal joints to the thread finger and to a camoperated slotted lever 8. The link 7 is, however, connected to a treadle(or knee controlled) mechanism by which when the treadle is operated theend 9 of the link is moved along the slot 10 in the lever 8 towards thepivot 11 of the lever. The treadle controlled mechanism has associatedwith it a counting device which, after a predetermined number ofstitches have been formed, after the end of the link '7 has been movedtowards the pivot of the lever 8, automatically returns that end of thelink '7 towards the outer end of the slot 10. The cam lever 8 has aconstant throw so that movement of the end 9 of the link 7 towards thepivot of the lever 8 reduces the throw of the thread finger 5 andtherefore reduces the amount of thread drawn by the thread finger.

When, during the sewing of a shoe, the toe is reached, the operatormanipulates the treadle (or knee lever) and causes the end 9 of the link7 to be moved towards the pivot of the lever 8 and thus shortens thethrow of the thread finger 5 as will be noted by comparing Figures 6 and7. This condition prevails while a number of stitches are formed roundthe toe, the number being predetermined by the operator according towhether the toe is narrow or road, and the counting mechanism beingaccordingly set to give the required number of stitches before the endof the link '7 is automatically moved away from the pivot of the lever 3to again give to the thread finger the same amount of movement which ithad when sewing along the side of the shoe. The operator is thus able todecrease the amount of thread available for each stitch when sewinground the toe of a shoe with a view to ensuring that equally tightsewing is eifected around the toe as at the sides. The position whichthe end 9 of the link 7 takes up towards each end of the slot 10 may beadjusted so that the amounts of thread available when sewing along theside of a shoe and round the toe may respectively be predetermined bythe operator according to the thickness of the materials to be sewntogether or any other changing conditions between parts of one and thesame shoe, or between different batches of work which may render suchadjustment desirable.

The link 7, hereinbefore referred to as being connected to a countingdevice, has pivotally connected to its end 9 an upwardly extending link14 which at its upper end is pivotally connected to a rearwardlyextending arm 15 which is rotatably mounted on a horizontal shaft 16extending across the machine and fixed to the machine frame. The arm 15has fixed on it a pair of plates 17, 18 which are relatively adjustableon the arm round the axis of the shaft 16. At the front and rear of theshaft 16 are formed gaps between the edges of the plates 17, 18 and inthe gap at the front of the shaft is a stud l9 fixed in the machineframe which limits the movement of the arm 15 in both directions. In thegap between the plates at the rear of the shaft is a pin fixed in acontrolling lever 21 which is pivoted on a horizontal shaft 22 extendingacross the machine and positioned behind and slightly below the shaft 16on which the plate-carrying arm 15 is mounted. By moving the controllinglever 21, the end 9 of the link '7 can be moved up or down in the slot10 of the cam lever 8 and by adjusting the plates 17, 18 the position ofthe end 9 of the link '7 may be varied at each end of its movement alongthe slot. When either or both of the plates 17 and 18 are adjusted thegap between the edges of the plates at the front of the shaft 16 isincreased or decreased and the gap at the rear of the shaft 16 iscorrespondingly decreased or increased and more or less lost motiontakes place between the pin 20 and the edges of the plates 17 and 18 atthe rear of the shaft 16 when the controlling lever 21 is moved by meansof a treadle or knee lever as hereinafter described through a uniformdistance when the treadle is depressed or when the treadle is releasedand the controlling lever 21 is returned by a spring hereinafterdescribed The controlling lever 21 has fixed to it by a screw 51 atreadle or knee lever operated arm 23 pivoted on the same shaft 22 asthe controlling lever 21. A spring 27 connected to the arm 23 and themachine frame tends to swing the arm 23 and the controlling lever 21 insuch a direction that the end 9 of the link 7 is normally near the lowerend of the slot 10 (as shown in Fig. 2) and movement of the treadle orknee lever moves the end 9 towards the upper end of the slot. When thetreadle or knee lever has been operated to swing the controlling lever21 (always through a uniform distance) and raise the end 9 of the link 7in the slot, the treadle is released and the controlling lever 21 isheld in this position by a stud 24 which engages a face 25 on a lug onthe controlling lever 21 (as shown in Fig. 1). The stud 24 is fixed in alatch arm 26 which is pivoted on.

the same shaft 11 as the cam lever 8 and the latch arm 26 is urged by aspring 52 in a direction to return the latch arm 26 after it isdisplaced by the lug on the controlling lever 21 moving past the stud 24on the latch arm 26 when the controlling lever 21 is moved to raise theend 9 of the link 7 in the slot 10. Pivoted on the same shaft 22 as thecontrolling lever 21 and between the controlling lever 21 and arm 23 isa ratchet lever 28 having fixed on it a segment on the edge of which isformed a row of ratchet teeth 29. A pawl 30 is pivoted on the usualneedle guide actuating lever 31 of the machine, which oscillates to andfro once during each cycle of the machine, is held in engagement withthe ratchet teeth by a spring (not shown) and moves the ratchet leverone step during each cycle of the machine. As the ratchet lever 28 ismoved step by step it is held against backward movement by a retainingpawl 32 which is pivoted on the controlling lever 21 and is urged by aspring into engagement with the ratchet teeth 29. The ratchet lever 28has in it a pin 33 which, after a predetermined number of cycles of themachine have been performed, engages a lug 34 on the latch arm 26 andswings the latch arm 26 in a direction to move the stud 24 on the latcharm 26 away from the face 25 on the lug on the controlling lever 21. Thecontrolling lever 21 is then returned by the spring 27 and moves the end9 of the link '7 towards the lower end of the slot 10 until the plate 18engages the stud 19. As the controlling lever 21 is returned, a roll 35on the lever 21 engages a tail 36 on the ratchet pawl 30 and swings thepawl away from and holds it out of engagement with the ratchet teeth 29so that the oscillation of the needle guide lever 31, when the end 9 ofthe link 7 is at the lower end of the slot 10, does not actuate thesegment lever. As the controlling lever 21 is returned, the retainingpawl 32 engages an adjustable eccentric 37 on the end of the stud onwhich the pawl 30 is pivoted and the retaining pawl is swung away fromthe ratchet teeth so that the ratchet lever 28 can be returned by thespring 52 associated with the latch arm which is connected to the latcharm and to the ratchet lever.

The pin 33 in the ratchet lever is movable into one or other of a numberof holes in the ratchet arm 28 which are different distances away fromthe lug 34 on the latch arm 26 into engagement with which the pin 33 ismoved after a predetermined number of cycles of the machine have beenperformed. By placing the pin in the appropriate hole, the number ofcycles, preferably 6, 8, 10 or 12, will be performed before the end 9 ofthe link is automatically returned to the lower end of the slot 10.

If the treadle or knee lever is directly connected to the arm 23 whichis fixed to the controlling lever 21, continued pressure on the treadlewill prevent the automatic return of the controlling lever and returnor" the end 9 of the link '7 towards the lower end of the slot 10 at thedesired time. To prevent this happening, a pawl 53 is pivoted on a block54 fixed to the treadle or knee lever operated rod 55. The pawl engagesa lug 56 on a block 57 pivotally connected to the arm 23 which is fixedto the controlling lever 21. When the rod 55 is moved downwardly by thetreadle or knee lever, the pawl 53, by its engagement with the lug 56,swings the controlling lever 21 about its shaft 22 until the face 25engages the stud 24 as shown in Fig. l. The pawl 53 is disengaged fromand held out of engagement with the lug 56 after the treadle has beendepressed to actuate the controlling lever by a pin 58 on the ratchetlever 28, which pin'engages a tail-59 on the pawl 53 when that lever hasbeen moved one or two steps by its pawl 30, as shown in Fig. 3. Since,as hereinbefore described, the ratchet lever 28 does not return untilafter the controlling lever 21 has returned, the pawl 53 cannotre-engage the lug 56 until after the end 9 of the link '7 has returnedtowards the lower end of the slot 10.

The nature and object of the invention having been explained, andmechanism in which it may be embodied having been specificallydescribed, what is claimed is:

1. A chain stitch shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitchforming devices including a curved hook needle, a looper and a threadfinger, means for actuating the stitch forming devices to cause thethread finger to draw a supply of thread during the formation of eachstitch, and means operable during the continued operation of the machinefor causing a less amount of thread to be available for forming stitchesaround the toe than at the sides of the shoe.

2. A chain stitch shoe sewing machinehaving, in combination, stitchforming devices including a curved hook needle, a looper and a threadfinger, means for actuating the stitch forming devices to cause thethread finger to draw a supply of thread during the formation of eachstitch, and means for causing the thread finger to draw a less amount ofthread during the continned operation of the machine in forming stitchesround the toe of a shoe than at the sides of the shoe.

3. A chain stitch shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitchforming devices including a curved hook needle, a looper and a threadfinger, means for actuating the stitch forming devices to cause thethread finger to draw a supply of thread during the formation of eachstitch, and means under the control of the operator for varying thethread drawing movement of the thread finger during the continuedoperation of the machine in sewing a seam.

4. A chain stitch shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitchforming devices including a curved hook needle, a looper, and a threadfinger, means for actuating the stitch forming devices to cause thethread finger to draw a supply of thread during the formation of eachstitch, and means acting automatically after a predetermined number ofstitches to vary the thread drawing movement of the thread finger.

5. A chain stitch shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitchforming devices including a curved hook needle, a looper, and a threadfinger, mechanism for actuating the thread finger to draw a supply ofthread during the formation of each stitch, means under the control ofthe operator for adjusting the thread finger actuating mechanism duringthe continued operation of the machine to vary the thread drawingmovement of the thread finger, and means acting automatically after apredetermined number of stitches to restore the thread finger actuatingmechanism to its original condition.

6. A chain stitch shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitchforming devices including a curved hook needle, a looper and a threadfinger, a lever for operating the thread finger provided with a slot,connections between the operating lever and the thread finger comprisinga link arranged at one end for sliding movement in the slot of theoperating lever to vary the movement of the thread finger, and meansunder the control of the operator for shifting the link'along the slotduring the continued opera tion of the machine in sewing a seam.

7. A chain stitch shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitchforming devices including a curved hook needle, a looper and a threadfinger, a lever for operating the thread finger provided with a slot,connections between the operating lever and the thread finger comprisinga link arranged at one end for sliding movement in the slot in theoperating lever to vary the movement of the thread finger, and means forautomatically shifting the link along the slot during sewing of a seam.

8. A chain stitch shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitchforming devices including a curved hook needle, a looper and a threadfinger, a lever for operating the thread finger provided with a slot,connections between the operating lever and the thread finger comprisinga link arranged at one end for sliding movement in the slot in theoperating lever to vary the movement of the thread finger, mechanismactuable after the formation of a predetermined number of stitches, andmeans operated from said mechanism for shifting the link along the slot.

9. A chain stitch shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitchforming devices including a curved hook needle, a looper and a threadfinger, means for actuating the stitch forming devices to cause thethread finger to draw a supply of thread during the formation of eachstitch, a member under the control of the operator, a latch formaintaining the member in operated position, connections between saidmember and the actuating means for the thread finger for causing thethread drawing movement of the thread finger to vary, and mechanismactuable after the formation of a predetermined number of stitches torelease said latch and permit return of said member to its originalposition.

10. A chain stitch shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitchforming devices including a curved hook needle, a loo-per and a threadfinger, means for actuating the stitch forming devices to cause thethread finger to draw a supply of thread during the formation of eachstitch, a member under the control of the operator, a latch formaintaining the member in operated position, connections between saidmember and the actuating means for the thread finger for causing thethread drawing movement of the thread finger to vary, mechanism actuableafter the formation of a predetermined number of stitches to releasesaid latch and permit return of said member to its original position,and means for preventing manual retention of said member in operatedposition after the release of said latch.

11. A chain stitch shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitchforming devices including a curved hook needle, a looper, and a threadfinger, means for actuating the stitch forming devices to cause thethread finger to draw a supply of thread during the formation of eachstitch, a member under the control of the operator, a latch formaintaining the member in operated position, connections between saidmember and the thread finger, actuating means for causing the threaddrawing movement of the thread finger to vary, a latch releasing device,ratchet teeth on the releasing device, and a pawl operated once duringeach stitch forming cycle for moving the latch releasing device onetooth of the ratchet to cause the releasing device to release the latchafter a predetermined number of stitches.

12. A chain stitch shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitchforming devices including a curved hook needle, a looper, and a threadfinger, means for actuating the stitch forming devices to cause thethread finger to draw a supply of thread during the formation of eachstitch, a member under the control of the operator, a latch formaintaining the member in operated position, connections between saidmember and the thread finger, actuating means for causing the threaddrawing movement of the thread finger to vary, a latch releasing device,ratchet teeth on the releasing device, a pawl operated once during eachstitch forming cycle for moving the latch releasing device one tooth ofthe ratchet, and adjustable means for causing the releasing device torelease the latch after movement of the ratchet an amount predeterminedby the adjustment of said adjustable means.

13. A chain stitch shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitchforming devices including a curved hook needle, a looper and a threadfinger, means for actuating the stitch forming devices to cause thethread finger to draw a supply of thread during the formation of eachstitch, means under the control of the operator for reducing duringsewing of a seam the amount of thread drawn by the thread finger, andseparately adjustable means for increasing or decreasing the amount ofthread which may be drawn by the thread finger when the thread reducingmeans is operated.

14. A chain stitch shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitchforming devices including a curved hook needle, a looper and a threadfinger, a lever for operating the thread finger, provided with a slot,connections between the operating lever and the thread finger comprisinga link arranged at one end for sliding movement in the slot of theoperating lever to vary the movement of the thread finger, means underthe control of the operator for shifting by a predetermined amount theposition of the link along the slot during sewing of a seam, andseparately adjustable means for increasing or decreasing the amount bywhich the link is shifted when the link shifting means is operated.

FRED RICKS. HARRY 'BROOKSHAW ALLCOCK.

